Tigers List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: DrMayf <(email redacted)>

Excuse the double listing if you've already got this...

Does anyone on the list have their Tiger's crossmember out on the floor? If
so, would you mind taking a couple of measurements for me? Estimate/measure
the distance from a line drawn between the lower ball joints and the
centerline of the steering rack and pinion. I guess somewhere between 7 - 10
inches, but I need to know within a half inch or so. Also the distance between
the rack and pinion joints (ie the ball sockets at the end of the rack - not
the tie rod ends).

So you want to know why, do you? Well, my Tiger is up against the wall in the
gargage with all sorts of stuff stacked around it. Plus it is hard to make the
measurements while the cross member is in the car. I am trying to correct the
ackerman angle problem by fabricating new steering arms and this information
is helpful. No, and I am not building a Tiger clone.

Any help would be appreciated!

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Doug & Rett Leithauser" <(email redacted)>

Gosh, if you can make the car steer, by all means, post the answer on the
list.
Shuddering around corners
Doug Leithauser

----------
> From: DrMayf <(email redacted)>
> To: (email redacted)
> Subject: Tiger Steering Dimensions???
> Date: Wednesday, January 28, 1998 7:59 PM
>
> Excuse the double listing if you've already got this...
>
> Does anyone on the list have their Tiger's crossmember out on the floor?
If
> so, would you mind taking a couple of measurements for me?
Estimate/measure
> the distance from a line drawn between the lower ball joints and the
> centerline of the steering rack and pinion. I guess somewhere between 7 -
10
> inches, but I need to know within a half inch or so. Also the distance
between
> the rack and pinion joints (ie the ball sockets at the end of the rack -
not
> the tie rod ends).
>
> So you want to know why, do you? Well, my Tiger is up against the wall in
the
> gargage with all sorts of stuff stacked around it. Plus it is hard to
make the
> measurements while the cross member is in the car. I am trying to correct
the
> ackerman angle problem by fabricating new steering arms and this
information
> is helpful. No, and I am not building a Tiger clone.
>
> Any help would be appreciated!

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Bill Martin <(email redacted)>


Whats Up Doc!

Before you fabricate out of billet some steering arms, try MGB steering
arms. You can get them at a wrecking yard for as little as 15 bucks. I
have a set on my car. They do take some fabricating, 1) one of the holes
has to be elongated as the mgb arms holes are an rch narower. 2) you will
need to make two bushings for the forward mounts, the dimentions can be
obtained from the workshop manual. 3) bump steer and ackerman can be
adjusted via a torch and some careful mesurments. It is important that you
know your backspacing of the front rims as this will limit the amount of
correction that you can obtain.
Good luck
Bill Martin
B9470735

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Bill Martin <(email redacted)>


Hello again,

I really should drink more coffee before writing in the morning. I
forgot to mention that the MGB arms are longer than Tiger arms by
about 3/4 of an inch which delivers much more leverage.
Bill

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Anita Barrett <(email redacted)>

At 07:23 AM 1/29/98 -0800, you wrote:
>
> Whats Up Doc!
>
> Before you fabricate out of billet some steering arms, try MGB steering
>arms. You can get them at a wrecking yard for as little as 15 bucks. I
>have a set on my car. They do take some fabricating, 1) one of the holes
>has to be elongated as the mgb arms holes are an rch narower. 2) you will
>need to make two bushings for the forward mounts, the dimentions can be
>obtained from the workshop manual. 3) bump steer and ackerman can be
>adjusted via a torch and some careful mesurments. It is important that you
>know your backspacing of the front rims as this will limit the amount of
>correction that you can obtain.
>Good luck
>Bill Martin
>B9470735
>
Tigers,
If you heat the steering arms with a torch to bend them, fine, but
consider that you have just lost the proper temper of the forgings. Highly
recommend that after you get them bent where you want them, take them to
a professional shop ahd have then re-heat treated.

I have found that the brake disk is the item that limits the correction,
not the wheel. You can go to larger diameter wheels to gain space for the
arm and tie-rod end.

Flipping the disk over is a possibility; but then you have to re do the
caliper mounts and you may need a wheel spacer.
Alpine steering arms, swapped to oppisite sides on a Tiger are also
slightly longer than the Tiger steering arms. No hole fabrication needed.

Longer Arms increase the miniman turn radii as well.

I can not figure out any way to correct the Tiger Ackerman angles.
(and I have tried hard, on computer, on paper and on steel). The steering rack
should be in line with the ends of the steering arms. I can not figure out
how to drill a hole through the crank damper and crank shaft to clear the rack.
Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Chris Richards" <(email redacted)>

> I can not figure out any way to correct the Tiger Ackerman
angles.
> (and I have tried hard, on computer, on paper and on steel). The
steering rack
> should be in line with the ends of the steering arms. I can not figure
out
> how to drill a hole through the crank damper and crank shaft to clear the
rack.
> Jim Barrett Tiger II 351C and others

I just simply lengthened the wheelbase. It's a much longer bonnet than
before, but I have room for an extra suitcase or cooler.

Chris

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Will Seay <(email redacted)>

Chris Richards wrote:
>
> I can not figure out any way to correct the Tiger Ackerman angles...
**********************
Chris,
There is a solution that uses the original steering rack and doesn't
require damper-pulley surgery. As I recall, a flexable joint is
inserted between the rack and the ball joint. The approach was
described in a CAT Tiger Tales issue circa the '80's. If there is
interest in reviving this, let me know, and I'll dig it up in my back
issues of Tiger Tales. I know that I have the issue, it's just that
it's lost in a stack that's pretty high.
--
B382001570 - Will Seay - (email redacted)

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Chris Richards" <(email redacted)>

I never indicated that I was trying to figure out problems with the Tiger's
steering dynamics. This thread isn't one I would claim to.

Sorry for any confusion-Chris

----------
> From: Will Seay <(email redacted)>
> To: Chris Richards <(email redacted)>
> Cc: Anita Barrett <(email redacted)>; Bill Martin
<(email redacted)>; (email redacted)
> Subject: Re: Tiger Steering Dimensions???
> Date: Saturday, January 31, 1998 10:26 AM
>
> Chris Richards wrote:
> >
> > I can not figure out any way to correct the Tiger Ackerman angles...
> **********************
> Chris,
> There is a solution that uses the original steering rack and doesn't
> require damper-pulley surgery. As I recall, a flexable joint is
> inserted between the rack and the ball joint. The approach was
> described in a CAT Tiger Tales issue circa the '80's. If there is
> interest in reviving this, let me know, and I'll dig it up in my back
> issues of Tiger Tales. I know that I have the issue, it's just that
> it's lost in a stack that's pretty high.
> --
> B382001570 - Will Seay - (email redacted)

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

Will,

Been there, done that. Would strongly advise AGAINST that approach (the Lou
Anderson Ackerman kit). Most people who tried it regretted it, including me.
As the sign said in The Wizard of OZ: "I'd turn back if I were you".

Bob Palmer
B9472134, SHO, etc.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Ray Bridenbaugh <(email redacted)>


Bob,

Why did you regret it? I know a car that had it (still does) and it worked
very well. What is the issue with the kit?

Ray


At 03:37 PM 1/31/98 EST, (email redacted) wrote:
>Will,
>
>Been there, done that. Would strongly advise AGAINST that approach (the Lou
>Anderson Ackerman kit). Most people who tried it regretted it, including me.
>As the sign said in The Wizard of OZ: "I'd turn back if I were you".
>
>Bob Palmer
>B9472134, SHO, etc.
>
>

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

Excuse the double ring if this has been posted already. I have two e-mail
accounts and I use one for the Alpine list and one for the Tiger list.
******************************************************************************
******************
Does anyone, on the list, have their Tiger's crossmember out on the floor? If
so, would you mind taking a couple of measurements for me? Estimate/measure
the distance from a line drawn between the lower ball joints and the
centerline of the steering rack and pinion. I guess somewhere between 7 - 10
inches, but I need to know within a half inch or so. Also the distance, or
length, between the rack and pinion joints (ie the ball sockets at the end of
the rack - not the tie rod ends).

So you want to know why, do you? Well, my Tiger is up against the wall in the
gargage with all sorts of stored winter stuff stacked around it. Plus, it is
hard to make the measurements while the cross member is in the car. I am
trying to correct the ackerman angle problem by fabricating new steering arms
and this information is helpful. No, and I am not building a Tiger clone.

Any help would be appreciated!