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Mail From: <(email redacted)>

Well as much as I hate to admit it I pulled a dumb shit. I did not get trapped by a cable break as most seem to I have the rod and just screwed up. I remounted the striker plate to the bonnet after having it welded to end wobble problems. I did not take time to be sure it was lined up for proper contact with the latch before closing the bonnet. It is not stuck in the down position.

I searched archives for old posts and found one written by Steve Laifman.
It indicated the way in was through the grill and removal of the bonnet hinges.

One, is this really the best/only way in and how many bolts per hinge are there ?
I see 4 threaded parts per hings that have no bolts at all. I assume they are female receptors of a screw from above. In addition I see two bolts per hinge.
I assume these are the ones to remove. Thanks for confirming or correctiong me

Steve R
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: <(email redacted)>

Well as much as I hate to admit it I pulled a dumb shit. I did not get trapped by a cable break as most seem to I have the rod and just screwed up. I remounted the striker plate to the bonnet after having it welded to end wobble problems. I did not take time to be sure it was lined up for proper contact with the latch before closing the bonnet. It is not stuck in the down position.

I searched archives for old posts and found one written by Steve Laifman.
It indicated the way in was through the grill and removal of the bonnet hinges.

One, is this really the best/only way in and how many bolts per hinge are there ?
I see 4 threaded parts per hings that have no bolts at all. I assume they are female receptors of a screw from above. In addition I see two bolts per hinge.
I assume these are the ones to remove. Thanks for confirming or correctiong me

Steve R
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net team.net/donate.html

(email redacted)
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: <(email redacted)>

Well as much as I hate to admit it I pulled a dumb shit. I did not get trapped by a cable break as most seem to I have the rod and just screwed up. I remounted the striker plate to the bonnet after having it welded to end wobble problems. I did not take time to be sure it was lined up for proper contact with the latch before closing the bonnet. It is not stuck in the down position.

I searched archives for old posts and found one written by Steve Laifman.
It indicated the way in was through the grill and removal of the bonnet hinges.

One, is this really the best/only way in and how many bolts per hinge are there ?
I see 4 threaded parts per hings that have no bolts at all. I assume they are female receptors of a screw from above. In addition I see two bolts per hinge.
I assume these are the ones to remove. Thanks for confirming or correctiong me

Steve R
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net team.net/donate.html

(email redacted)
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Mail From: "Lynn Wall" <(email redacted)>

I actually did this TWICE while getting my new LAT hood installed. Removing
the bolts is not as difficult as it sounds. I took the ones out that held
the hinge to the hood. Once I got them out, I slightly lifted up the
leading edge of the hood and moved it around while someone else held the
latch open. Took me about 15-20 minutes each time. Definitely 2 or 3
person job to make sure you avoid scratches. 2 on the hood and one on the
release. FWIW I did it with 2.

Good luck, Lynn

-----Original Message-----
From: (email redacted) [mailtoemail redacted)]
On Behalf Of (email redacted)
Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 4:14 PM
To: (email redacted)
Subject: [Tigers] Bonnet release problem

Well as much as I hate to admit it I pulled a dumb shit. I did not get
trapped by a cable break as most seem to I have the rod and just screwed up.
I remounted the striker plate to the bonnet after having it welded to end
wobble problems. I did not take time to be sure it was lined up for proper
contact with the latch before closing the bonnet. It is not stuck in the
down position.

I searched archives for old posts and found one written by Steve Laifman.
It indicated the way in was through the grill and removal of the bonnet
hinges.

One, is this really the best/only way in and how many bolts per hinge are
there ?
I see 4 threaded parts per hings that have no bolts at all. I assume they
are female receptors of a screw from above. In addition I see two bolts per
hinge.
I assume these are the ones to remove. Thanks for confirming or correctiong
me

Steve R
(email redacted)
autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/tigers

team.net/archive
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net team.net/donate.html

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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Steve Laifman <(email redacted)>

Steve R and Tigers,

Yes, that's how I did it to install the LAT hood. This hood also had a
metal plate at the rear to hold the striker.
Lot of sweat until I learned the method. Once correctly aligned, front
and rear, and with removal of enough front shims to get the thicker
glass hood to be flush in front, and enough turns of the rear "prong" to
ensure locking - but capable of release or your in BIG trouble. Had to
cut the rear rubber bumpers down to allow the rear of the hood to be
flush, as well. Keep all removed items, in case.

I posted detail instructions, and pictures of my installation partway
down the page:

tigersunited.com/techtips/tech_threads/tt-body9.asp

This was August, 1999, and never had a problem since. Had both front
and rear embedded plates for fastening original hinges and rear latch -
NO chrome posts!

Luck,

Steve

___
Steve Laifman
Editor - TigersUnited.com
<TigersUnited.com>



(email redacted) wrote:
> Well as much as I hate to admit it I pulled a dumb shit. I did not get trapped by a cable break as most seem to I have the rod and just screwed up. I remounted the striker plate to the bonnet after having it welded to end wobble problems. I did not take time to be sure it was lined up for proper contact with the latch before closing the bonnet. It is not stuck in the down position.
>
> I searched archives for old posts and found one written by Steve Laifman.
> It indicated the way in was through the grill and removal of the bonnet hinges.
>
> One, is this really the best/only way in and how many bolts per hinge are there ?
> I see 4 threaded parts per hings that have no bolts at all. I assume they are female receptors of a screw from above. In addition I see two bolts per hinge.
> I assume these are the ones to remove. Thanks for confirming or correctiong me
>
> Steve R
_______________________________________________
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(email redacted)
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team.net/archive