Tigers List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Bill Gegg <(email redacted)>

I knew if I waited long enough, we would get back to traction bars. I am
thinking about removing my weld-on bars and converting them so that they
attach to the front eye of the rear springs. I would appreciate
ideas/thoughts on the matter.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Bob Palmer <(email redacted)>

Bill, et Listers,

While this might seem like a good idea at first blush (i.e., this setup
gives equal swing radii), it seems to me there will be a problem arising
from the bending of the spring and the consequent change in effective
length. This will make the forward half of the spring essentially unable to
bend and create a lot of conflict between the traction bar and leaf
springs, which is precisely what I believe you are trying to avoid. This is
also the problem with the weld-on bars, but this interference can be all
but eliminated by adjusting the height of the front mounting point to
create compatible swing radii of axle and traction bar. Usually the forward
mount of the traction bar is too high, creating a strong interference. It
should be low enough to make the bar almost parallel with the ground. You
can test it by jacking up and lowering one rear wheel and check where the
forward end of the traction bar locates. Find the height where there is no
motion fore or aft in the region of the neutral ride height of the axle.
Setup would be greatly simplified if you make the length of the traction
bars adjustable. Otherwise, you will have to adjust the front mounting
point fore and aft as well. It is my opinion, as yet unproven, that if done
as I describe here, this setup would be superior to the bolt-on style bars.
Of course, I'm sure to get some contrary opinions, but that's what makes
this fun.

Bob

At 07:48 AM 3/1/99 -0800, Bill Gegg wrote:
>I knew if I waited long enough, we would get back to traction bars. I am
>thinking about removing my weld-on bars and converting them so that they
>attach to the front eye of the rear springs. I would appreciate
>ideas/thoughts on the matter.
>

Robert L. Palmer
Dept. of AMES, Univ. of Calif., San Diego
(email redacted)
(email redacted)

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Steve Laifman <(email redacted)>



Bill Gegg wrote:

> I knew if I waited long enough, we would get back to traction bars. I am
> thinking about removing my weld-on bars and converting them so that they
> attach to the front eye of the rear springs. I would appreciate
> ideas/thoughts on the matter.

Bill,

The Traction Master design for the Alpine worked exactly that way. The
front pivot welded on to the frame in the area of the front spring eye. The
spring eye bolt was used to locate the bracket, which was tacked to the
frame. The Springs and bolt are removed for complete welding. In the end,
the horizontal bolt that the forward T-M eye fits is exactly beneath the
spring bolt, the same distance down as the rear axle support. This gives a
parallelogram suspension system that does not cause the axle to try to
follow two pivot points, and put strange forces on the springs. This mount
is thick steel, with a few notches to clear existing frame steel.

Your frame structure in that area looks pretty solid, to my eyes, but
reinforcing with extra steel is still a good idea.

I happen to have a set of those original Traction Master bars, NOS perfect
condition, and still in the original T-M box, with the original T-M decal
available. These include the original yellowed newspaper they were packed
in. Willing to sell to the highest outlandish price. {9->

Steve

--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >


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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

Listers,

After making my last post about reproduction bars I contacted TMC about
purchasing additional bushings. For those who do not know TMC is the Traction
Master Co. who made the origanal traction bars for the Tigers. I had
contacted them two years ago when I was looking for some bars for my Tiger. At
that time they would not make any bars unless they had an order for at least
100 sets. Chuck, my contact with TMC has informed me that they now are
producing traction bars for the Tiger. Chuck has been working with Mike Mulvey
who is a long time Tiger owner from California to remake the bars. They come
in both the weld on and the clamp on.
The bars sell for $119.00 plus shipping and are not powder coated. Contact
Chuck at (213) 382-1131 or E-mail (email redacted)

Larry Atkisson

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Dave Binkley <(email redacted)>

Larry Atkisson reported yesterday about Traction Master making their bars
once again. Yesterday while passing thru Dulles on my way to LaGuardia I
picked up a copy of the March 1999 issue of Mustangs & Fords. Sure enough,
on page 75 there is an ad from Traction Master on the availability of their
bars for "Mustang - Falcon - Cougar - Tiger". Kind of neat to see a 1/4
page ad that highlights the availabilty of something for a Tiger. You can
e-mail them for a new catalog at (email redacted).

Dave

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

When I had my rear springs rearched (worked perfectly, Who
needs new springs), I removed the Traction bars to have them
straightened as they had the typical Tiger bend. The spring
shopman had a good laugh.

Why these are aluminum. What good are they? They might
as well make them out of rubber.

I straightened them are reinstalled with new SS bushings.
The shop foreman said that the whole traction bar setup on the
Tiger was completely wrong, but given the amount of room was
probably the best anyone could come up with. He advised that
the straight axle Vets (57-62) had the same problem. The
solution was simple. Make the second spring as long as the
primary. Has anyone tried this??

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

In a message dated 3/3/99 9:06:45 PM Pacific Standard Time, (email redacted)
writes:

<< I straightened them are reinstalled with new SS bushings.
The shop foreman said that the whole traction bar setup on the
Tiger was completely wrong, but given the amount of room was
probably the best anyone could come up with. He advised that
the straight axle Vets (57-62) had the same problem. The
solution was simple. Make the second spring as long as the
primary. Has anyone tried this?? >>

That is exactly the advice I received from Tom Hall when I was setting my
Tiger up for autocross/open track. I got a set of Alpine rear springs
(basically the same as the Tiger) for $25, took them apart, ground off the
"dots" from the primary leafs and then re-arced all the leafs in Tom's back
yard using a fixture he had made.
I put the mess back together, using two primary leafs. Works fine, stiffer and
much less axle wind up. I also installed bolt-on TMC type bars which Keith
Queen made up for me and left the back half of the springs unclamped, like the
Mopar "Super Stock" springs. I have no complaints with the cars forward
"bite".
Mike