Tigers List Archive

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Mail From: Larry Wright <(email redacted)>

Boy, is this job going slow! Going on vacation, and losing a few weekends, didn't
help.

The underdash area is ready to receive the dash. all is painted, and the brackets for the steering
column, wiper motor, blower motor, etc., are bright red and held in with stainless steel bolts. My,
ain't that pretty down there?

The dash is also about ready to go in, all of the guages/switches are done and the new glove box is
installed. It was tough getting up the nerve to drill the little holes in the back of the dash for
the short screws to hold the box on; I could not find stop-collars locally for the 3/32" bit I had
to use, so I used the masking tape method. I can report I did _not_ accidentally drill through the
face of the dash. One thing I need, I have a few feelers out but am not optimistic, is a heater
valve control cable. Anyone know what kind of wire I can fabricate one from?

I wanted to glue in the kick panels but they don't seem to lay _quite_ flat enough for that. I
noticed screw holes in the metal of the car in that area; should the kick panels be secured by
screws, and, if so, be screws alone? And any ideas on how to locate where the holes in the kick
panels go?

This morning I had quite a shock. I wanted to put the leather on the console today. First, I found
that the leather in the kit is not cut to final shape, it took an hour to draw out all of the little
tabs and cut. No biggie. Then, I applied glue to it then to the console. The paint immediately
started to lift from the console!!!! Yup, there was a warning on the can, alright. I think I'll
overspray the console and seatframes with the same brand of paint I used on the under-dash bar, if I
can remember what that is...

Pretty sure the Garage Queen won't be at British Car Day in Bowie, Maryland this year.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: William Goebner <(email redacted)>

Larry,
I don't know if this is the best answer, but I have fabricated one from
a choke cable obtained from a local auto parts supply. I need to re-do
mine again. Every time I do it I route the cable in a different way and
buy a different valve which operates backwards from the last valve I
used. This time I have the correct valve at least!

Bill Goebner - Woodside, California - B9470807

p.s.
Thanks for all of your wonderful and informative posts.

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Larry Wright wrote:
... heater valve control cable.
Anyone know what kind of wire I can fabricate one from?
>