Tigers List Archive

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "DAVID GREEN" <(email redacted)>

Hello Listers,

Hope you all had a great new year.

I started mine out by installing the engine, transmission, & front
suspension in my 1965 Tiger. The engine is a 260, the transmission is a T-5,
and the front suspension is modified with Dale A's rack kit. I also have the
Cat clubs merged headers.

A few observations I have are first I did have to make room at the header
pipe to head plate so I could get clearance for some of the bolts.

I was told I would not have any clearance issues with the frame when
installing the headers. I had them jet hot coated and now find I do have
clearance issues with the left side front pipe to frame and left side #2
pipe to motor mount bracket. On the right side I have a clearance issue with
#2 pipe to motor mount bracket. Have any other Tiger owners run into this
problem? I do have a couple of pictures if anyone wants to see. These three
pipes have no clearance to frame or bracket.

Second problem is with the MG sprite rack and Dales adapters for the tie
rods I have not got enough adjustment to bring the toe-in for the tires to
toed-in. The are currently toed-out. My options are to shorten the rack side
inner tie rods. Anyone run into this problem?

Thanks for reading this and hope I can resolve these issues quickly.
Dave Green
B9472549LRXFE (going back together for it's 40th Birthday!)

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Frank Marrone" <(email redacted)>

David,

Yes. That is typical I believe. I had problems at #2 (your #2 right side I
think) and #6 (#6 = your #2 left side I think). Also I had to relieve the
down pipe on #1 to clear the frame rail, others have told me they relieved
the frame rail instead. The problem with the bolts on the header flange is
also typical.

I also had interference between the collectors and the bellhousing flange
with the Lakewood scattershield.

I also had a small problem between one of the downpipes and the Aviaid road
racing oil pan.

I know there are others on the list who have had similar problems. I've
also heard of (but not talked to) people who claim they have had no
problems.

I think there is enough evidence of issues with these headers that you
should have been warned to test fit them first.

Frank
B9471116



> [mailtoemail redacted)] On Behalf Of DAVID GREEN
> Subject: Questions
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> I was told I would not have any clearance issues with the
> frame when installing the headers. I had them jet hot coated
> and now find I do have clearance issues with the left side
> front pipe to frame and left side #2 pipe to motor mount
> bracket. On the right side I have a clearance issue with
> #2 pipe to motor mount bracket. Have any other Tiger owners
> run into this problem? I do have a couple of pictures if
> anyone wants to see. These three pipes have no clearance to
> frame or bracket.

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Frank Marrone" <(email redacted)>

David,

As for a possible solution at #2 and #6, you may be able to grind the engine
hanger instead of relieveing the headers. That is what I did. I was lucky
because having been warned I made all the mods before coating the headers.

Frank
B9471116

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "DAVID GREEN" <(email redacted)>

Listers,

Well I may have solved at least the clearance issue with the wheel to tie
rod. After looking at Larry Paulick's article and a picture from an old
e-mail on the tie rod hook up ( always helps to keep a file on this stuff!).
I have the tie rod stud pointing down instead of up. So I need to switch the
steering arms from side to side. I will do that this weekend and see if my
toe problem is also solved. Will let you know on the header issue when I
figure out what course of action I will take.
Dave
B7492549LRXFE

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Larry Paulick <(email redacted)>

Dave, on the toe-in, call Dale. I did not have this problem with his
kit. On the headers, I used Rick's and I had the same problem. If you
did not put the motor mount spacer washers between the block and the
motor mounts, this can cause the pipes to hit. Even with this, I had
to ding the header on the left side.

Larry

DAVID GREEN wrote:

> Hello Listers,
>
> Hope you all had a great new year.
>
> I started mine out by installing the engine, transmission, & front
> suspension in my 1965 Tiger. The engine is a 260, the transmission is
> a T-5, and the front suspension is modified with Dale A's rack kit. I
> also have the Cat clubs merged headers.
>
> A few observations I have are first I did have to make room at the
> header pipe to head plate so I could get clearance for some of the bolts.
>
> I was told I would not have any clearance issues with the frame when
> installing the headers. I had them jet hot coated and now find I do
> have clearance issues with the left side front pipe to frame and left
> side #2 pipe to motor mount bracket. On the right side I have a
> clearance issue with #2 pipe to motor mount bracket. Have any other
> Tiger owners run into this problem? I do have a couple of pictures if
> anyone wants to see. These three pipes have no clearance to frame or
> bracket.
>
> Second problem is with the MG sprite rack and Dales adapters for the
> tie rods I have not got enough adjustment to bring the toe-in for the
> tires to toed-in. The are currently toed-out. My options are to
> shorten the rack side inner tie rods. Anyone run into this problem?
>
> Thanks for reading this and hope I can resolve these issues quickly.
> Dave Green
> B9472549LRXFE (going back together for it's 40th Birthday!)

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Larry Paulick <(email redacted)>

I had forgotten, I also ground the motor mounts slightly, which gave me
the clearance on some of the pipes, but be careful, as you don't want to
go overboard and weaken the motor mounts.

Build tolerances on these cars is not what we get with new cars, so they
must be tweaked for add ons like the headers.

Larry

Frank Marrone wrote:

>David,
>
>As for a possible solution at #2 and #6, you may be able to grind the engine
>hanger instead of relieveing the headers. That is what I did. I was lucky
>because having been warned I made all the mods before coating the headers.
>
>Frank
>B9471116

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Larry Paulick <(email redacted)>

Dave, remember the steering arms are switched as well. Both the tie
rods and the steering arms are tapered so that is why the nut is on the
top side.

Larry

DAVID GREEN wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Well I may have solved at least the clearance issue with the wheel to
> tie rod. After looking at Larry Paulick's article and a picture from
> an old e-mail on the tie rod hook up ( always helps to keep a file on
> this stuff!). I have the tie rod stud pointing down instead of up. So
> I need to switch the steering arms from side to side. I will do that
> this weekend and see if my toe problem is also solved. Will let you
> know on the header issue when I figure out what course of action I
> will take.
> Dave
> B7492549LRXFE

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: (email redacted)

As far as the headers go, I know that with Cermakrome you can bend and beat
the headers for fit without having the coating come off. With Jethot I would be
concerned, check what they say and remember that Cermakrome is cheaper and
better.

Moonstone