Tigers List Archive

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Mail From: "Chris Vaught" <(email redacted)>

well no parts for this baby in hawaii, or it could be the poor quality of
the parts stores. i asked for any girling product (slave or master) with a
7/8" bore. they could not figure it out. i did however find the old slave
and i used its o ring. now i am drinking a beer waiting on some sucker to
help me bleed the slave and brakes!!!!!!!
Thanks
Chris B382002322 ( IN PIECES )

This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: Tom Hall <(email redacted)>

At 03:00 PM 1/6/2000 -1000, you wrote:
>well no parts for this baby in hawaii, or it could be the poor quality of
>the parts stores. i asked for any girling product (slave or master) with a
>7/8" bore. they could not figure it out. i did however find the old slave
>and i used its o ring. now i am drinking a beer waiting on some sucker to
>help me bleed the slave and brakes!!!!!!!
>Thanks
>Chris B382002322 ( IN PIECES )

Chris,
To compensate for excessive distance between the fork and the cylinder,
all you need is a long 5/16 -24 bolt. I like the grade 8 for it's higher
strength. Measure or estimate the distance between the spherical cavity in
the bottomed slave piston and the backside face of the adjusting nut which
bears on the fork socket. Add 3/4" to 1" for thread engagement and find
a bolt this long. Mark the distance from the threaded end and cut the hex
head and bolt shaft off at this point. Use a sander, grinder or similar
tool and from an approximate spherical end on the rod. Install a hex nut
to jam against the adjusting nut and assemble. If you make it too long,
you can shorten it the same way. Your spherical end should be smooth, but
the spherical accuracy is not at all critical. Just had to do this last
week for a friend.

Tom