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Mail From: David T Johnson <(email redacted)>

When I will put my side molding back on, I do what an old
CAT tip recommended. Go down to the hardware store and buy
small stainless machine screws whose head fits in the
molding lot.

Put the molding in place and slide the screws until you
get to their hole. I added nuts with split ring washers and
washers. I finger tightened verything until I was happy.
Once happy I conched the nutts but not so hard to
hurt the paint.

You can get to all the nuts from inside the car. The only
one that was a problem was the small strip on the front
fender. I used a SS type fasteners I got at a VW dealer.

New time I may use nylon machine screws. Their
nuts look like they won't looser.

Dave


--- On Sat, 4/3/10, rande <(email redacted)> wrote:


From: rande <(email redacted)>
Subject: [Tigers] Chrome H/L rims and mldg clips
To: (email redacted)
Cc: (email redacted)
Date: Saturday, April 3, 2010, 4:26 PM


First, someone was looking for a source for Tiger side moulding fasteners.

Assuming you're not looking for the very original rivets, and are drilling
holes
in the position the rivets were originally, one source, of course, is Rick at
Sunbeam Specialties.

If for some reason you can't wait for Rick's to ship, there's another local
source. A very nice clip was used on most of the models of 1975 and 1976
Volkswagen
Rabbits sold in the U.S. The VW part number is 155-853-585. It's identical to
Ricks, with the added benefit that it has a rubber o-ring that, when pressed
in, will seal against the hole that was drilled. I keep them in the same bin
at home that I have Rick's.

As for the individual (hanjan?), I thought their response was a little too
categorical
about chrome headlight rims without attribution, so I asked Brian Postle of
Sunbeam Spares (and STOC). His own car, #605 (one of the Hartwell Six), has
painted rims ( it was Orchid Green, now a metallic blue), but numbers 633 and
632 both have chrome headlight rims. These are, respectively, the highest and
second highest I.D. number cars, near the very end of production. He said, as
far as he could tell, he thought all Mark II's originally used the painted
rim.


Someone pointed out to me that there was just one part number in the January
1968 parts catalog covering 'first production Mark II' and the last 1,200
Alpine
V's!!!!. No supercessions, no optional numbers, no 'second production Mark
II'.




As a side note, a seller from Quebec recently auctioned off a pair of
slightly
marred NOS chrome rims for $333.25. Ouch. I asked the seller, before the end
of the auction, what the part number on these NOS rims was. He said they
didn't
come in a Rootes/Chrysler or Lucas package, but he quoted the Rootes number
from the catalog. In other words, he didn't know.
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: michael king <(email redacted)>

> As a side note, a seller from Quebec recently auctioned off a pair of
> slightly
> marred NOS chrome rims for $333.25. Ouch. I asked the seller, before the
> end
> of the auction, what the part number on these NOS rims was. He said they
> didn't
> come in a Rootes/Chrysler or Lucas package, but he quoted the Rootes number
> from the catalog. In other words, he didn't know.


That price for the "MKII" rims was not to bad given recent prices.. as for
being MKII.. we know they are the same casting but wrong finish. I have NOS
chrome and painted in primer MKII rims, they both share the same part
numbers on the back of the rim, that seller should have been able to give
you the nu,ber off the rim.

to see pics go to :
catmbr.org/VB_forum/showthread.php?t=169


--
Regards

Michael King
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Mail From: Steve Laifman <(email redacted)>

David, and Tigers (Alpines too, if this gets through to them - Maybe
David can forward it)

In this back-and-forth about fasteners, it awoke my memory.

I purchased some stainless small screw, nuts, washers and split lock
washers. I seem to recall 10-40, but check your existing holes.

By careful filing, I made the head into a square, thin shape and
thickness, that fit the rear most stainless slot access hole. Since
these side pieces have an enlarged hole in the track back-side to
install the original studs, I could insert the squared heads and then
slide it into position where the fender/door holes are. I did this for
every position that was accessible from the rear.

The stainless nuts and washers were tightened snugly (not hard) with a
small wrench or socket, from inside the car or trunk.

Works great. Strips won't fall off in jarring over a rough road. Rust
doesn't happen. That doesn't mean the original sheet metal won't rust,
but painting the hole before installation can help.

Steve

David T Johnson wrote:
> When I will put my side molding back on, I do what an old
> CAT tip recommended. Go down to the hardware store and buy
> small stainless machine screws whose head fits in the
> molding lot.
>
> Put the molding in place and slide the screws until you
> get to their hole. I added nuts with split ring washers and
> washers. I finger tightened verything until I was happy.
> Once happy I conched the nutts but not so hard to
> hurt the paint.
>
> You can get to all the nuts from inside the car. The only
> one that was a problem was the small strip on the front
> fender. I used a SS type fasteners I got at a VW dealer.
>
> New time I may use nylon machine screws. Their
> nuts look like they won't looser.
>
> Dave
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