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Air Dam

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Air Dam
#1
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This read-only message was archived from a public mail list.
Mail From: "Mike Sutter" <(email redacted)>




"Has anyone found a nice looking airdam in a junkyard that is a reasonable
fit? "

Chris


Chris,

FYI, A guy down here in San Diego installed an air dam/valance from a BMW
320i on his Tiger. I spoke with his son about the installation and his son
said that the air dam fit the contour of the Tiger without too much
modification. He was able to run the stock bumper with the air dam
installed. I saw the car several times with the part in place and it looked
great. He has since sold the car. Some of our long-time Tiger people may
know the P.O., Mr. D. Briggs. The car is listed as sold on Mark Olsons web
site.

Mike


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Air Dam
#2
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Mail From: (email redacted) (Dennis DeBolt)

I had a Fiat 124 Air Dam on the fron of a previous car that I owned . As I
recall it was a very good fit. Check it out.
Marysville School District
Marysville, WA. USA



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Air Dam
#3
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Mail From: "Overton, Keith A." <(email redacted)>

My tiger has a Fiberglass Air dam / Spoiler, which came of an older 280Z
(or so I was told when I purchased the car), Actually I believe it was
ordered after market from JC Whitneys. It looks like it was designed
for the Tiger! I will look on it for Markings.

>----------
>From: Mike Sutter[SMTPsad smileyemail redacted)]
>Reply To: Mike Sutter
>Sent: Friday, May 14, 1999 11:08 AM
>To: (email redacted)
>Subject: Air Dam
>
>
>
>
>"Has anyone found a nice looking airdam in a junkyard that is a reasonable
>fit? "
>
>Chris
>
>
>Chris,
>
>FYI, A guy down here in San Diego installed an air dam/valance from a BMW
>320i on his Tiger. I spoke with his son about the installation and his son
>said that the air dam fit the contour of the Tiger without too much
>modification. He was able to run the stock bumper with the air dam
>installed. I saw the car several times with the part in place and it looked
>great. He has since sold the car. Some of our long-time Tiger people may
>know the P.O., Mr. D. Briggs. The car is listed as sold on Mark Olsons web
>site.
>
>Mike
>


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about 2 months and 1 day later...
Air Dam
#4
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Mail From: Steve Laifman <(email redacted)>

Tim,

This 'bib' you are speaking of is the 'mini air dam' I have been preaching for
about 2 years now. I used a GM one on my custom built car and it works fine.
After I add my simple duct from the lower valance inlet to the bottom of the
radiator (to force the air through the radiator, instead of under it) I will put a
‘parking curb scraper’ on the front cross member. It's job is to increase the air
flow between the ground and the stub dam, creating a partial vacuum (lower
pressure) behind the radiator and PULLING the air through.

Those front air dams and the 'racy cars' are just plain ugly, and this will do as
well - and not be seen. Some of the newer cars are using a vinyl piece for this
job that will bend when it hits something, like a speed bump. That's probably
where I'll be heading.

Steve

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B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>

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Air Dam
#5
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Mail From: Robert Hogan <(email redacted)>

Several years ago, while foraging for disposable drip pans (i.e. large
cardboard boxes), I found a 1/4" x 12" x 10 ft. strip of tranclucent
polypropylene flapper door material that had been discarded from a
furniture retailer. The cut, formed and painted plastic strip made an
excellently deformable air dam as it held shape under aerodynamic
loading and obstacle contact but did not transmit significant loading to
the supporting structure.


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Air Dam
#6
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Mail From: "Tim Ronak" <(email redacted)>

Steve Laifman Wrote:
Tim,

This 'bib' you are speaking of is the 'mini air dam' I have been preaching
for
about 2 years now. I used a GM one on my custom built car and it works
fine.
After I add my simple duct from the lower valance inlet to the bottom of the
radiator (to force the air through the radiator, instead of under it) I will
put a
'parking curb scraper' on the front cross member. It's job is to increase
the air
flow between the ground and the stub dam, creating a partial vacuum (lower
pressure) behind the radiator and PULLING the air through.

Those front air dams and the 'racy cars' are just plain ugly, and this will
do as
well - and not be seen. Some of the newer cars are using a vinyl piece for
this
job that will bend when it hits something, like a speed bump. That's
probably
where I'll be heading.

Steve

Steve,
This is great! once you get it mounted if it is possible can you take
pictures or detail how you did it. I am at least 1-year from needing to do
that as I need to put something in worth cooling first.
Regards,
Tim Ronak



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Air Dam
#7
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Mail From: "Tim Ronak" <(email redacted)>

Robert Hogan Wrote:
> Several years ago, while foraging for disposable drip pans (i.e. large
> cardboard boxes), I found a 1/4" x 12" x 10 ft. strip of tranclucent
> polypropylene flapper door material that had been discarded from a
> furniture retailer. The cut, formed and painted plastic strip made an
> excellently deformable air dam as it held shape under aerodynamic
> loading and obstacle contact but did not transmit significant loading to
> the supporting structure.

Robert,
that is a great idea.
Tim



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Air Dam
#8
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Mail From: Steve Laifman <(email redacted)>

Robert Hogan wrote:

> Several years ago, while foraging for disposable drip pans (i.e. large
> cardboard boxes), I found a 1/4" x 12" x 10 ft. strip of tranclucent
> polypropylene flapper door material that had been discarded from a
> furniture retailer. The cut, formed and painted plastic strip made an
> excellently deformable air dam as it held shape under aerodynamic
> loading and obstacle contact but did not transmit significant loading to
> the supporting structure.

Robert,

You just reminded me that I have a twenty foot roll of vinyl in the garage I
bought for very little from Home Depot. It was meant for a garage door bottom
seal, and is about 4" deep, and very flexible.

A 1 inch light aluminum angle bracket from the same source could the attached to
the bottom of the front cross member, just under the radiator, and the vinyl can
be attached to it. Design completed.

Technical Specifications:

1) Length of angle not to exced space available.

2) Distance back not to interfere with moving parts.

3.1)Attachment of angle to crossmember by sheet metal screws, size 10, with
washers, to the cross member.

3.2) Alternate method - use aluminum Riv-nuts, same size machine screw thread, so
it can be bolted on and off easier.

4.1) Attach vinyl garage door bottom seal to the aluminum angle with 3/16 or
larger aluminum pop rivets. Use aluminum pop-rivet washers under the head (vinyl
side) to spread the load.

4.2) Alternate method, use strip of 0.030 aluminum strip same source) and
"sandwich" the vinyl between the strip and the angle.

5) Designer's Fee: - Report back on design chosen, lengths used, parts cost and
quantities, and effectiveness.

Cheap enough?


Steve






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Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>

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Air Dam
#9
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Mail From: Steve Laifman <(email redacted)>

Larry Paulick wrote:

> What about the plastic material used for gardens as an edge material for
> flower beds? Cheap, flexible, black, 4"-6" high depending on the size,
> and can be easily cut.
>
> I will be doing a similar procedure, and just thought of that material
> as an easy source of material.
>
> Larry

Larry,

Even better. Just checked my garage seal and it's kind of thin. probably bend
over in the flow. "Self-adjusting aerodynamic flow gate". My garden stuff has a 1
inch round top. (bottom in our application, or longer screws to connect it. There
are probably flat materials also available. Good thought.

Steve



--
Steve Laifman < Find out what is most >
B9472289 < important in your life >
< and don't let it get away!>

_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/ _/_/_/ _/_/_/ _/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/_/_/_/
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
_/_/_/_/_/__/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/
_/
_/_/_/




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